Hiking Whiteface Mountain in the Adirondacks has several different routes to the top. In this article, I share my story and provide details for those that want to challenge themselves with a steep and fast hike that will leave hikers breathless, literally and figuratively.
Hiking Whiteface Mountain Overview
Five facts about hiking Whiteface Mountain:
- Whiteface Mountain is the fifthhighest mountain in New York State
- You can hike or take the auto road to the top
- There is an elevator that transports people to the peak, or you can walk up the stairs
- Whiteface Mountain was the host of the 1980 Olympics
- The peak sits at 4,867 feet
Vertical Ascent: Why I Chose the Hard Route Up Whiteface
I love a good vertical ascent! What I didn’t expect on Whiteface was to face a mile-long, very steep vertical ascent at the start. I didn’t set out to hike the trail that starts at the Atmospheric Research Centre
My husband and I had done Mt. Marcy, the highest peak in New York State the day before (5,344 feet). I was on a peak bagging roll so said I wanted to do a speed hike to the peak of Whiteface the next day. I had done very little planning, except for my food. I always put a ton of time into planning what to eat to fuel my performance.
See my article on eating for performance here
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We drove to Whiteface Ski Resort and looked for a trailhead. For a Sunday in August, it was pretty quiet. After consulting a few websites we decided that the trail at the Atmospheric Research Centre was the place to start. It was a quick decision based on the fact it was only a few hours to the peak.
The Vertical Ascent that REALLY Challenged Me
Again, I love vertical but this vertical ascent REALLY challenged me! Look at how crazy and relentless this climb was:
Vertical Ascent: 800 feet of elevation gain in the first 1.4 km (.87 miles)
Entire hike: 2,793 feet elevation gain and 5.94 km (3.7 miles)
Bear Bells and What I Learned Tracking Grizzlies
When I was thirty years old I participated in a project for Earthwatch, monitoring grizzly bears in Montana and, learned about the reality of bear bells. They don’t work. Bears have become acclimatized to them. We joked among our group that they had become “dinner bells” instead.
The relentless vertical climb with its unmarked trails made my mind start to wander. One would think I’m not a good candidate for solo hiking if my mind wanders off like this.
After this hike, I went on to do the Presidential Traverse in the White Mountains solo.
I became worried that I might run into a bear. Without another soul in sight, I wondered who would ever find my body. With every labored breath from the steep vertical, I peered into the forest to see if I could see any bears. I went over bear protocols in my mind from my time on the Earthwatch project:
What to do if I run into a bear while hiking Whiteface:
- Determine if it is a grizzly or black bear (by its snout. Alternatively, use my noggin and know that there are only black bears in NY State)
- Clap occasionally. At least 35 years ago that was the latest “bear scare” protocol
- Make myself big. Arms overhead. Scary face (not sure if that one helps). Roar. Intimidate the bear.
Hiking Whiteface Ski Trails
One great thing about hiking Whiteface is you eventually land on a ski trail. I was elated to get off of the steep vertical and finally hit some flat land.
And a trail marker! Thanks to this being a big ski resort I finally saw a trail marker.
And this view! I momentarily let my “bear watch” guard down to take in this view.
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Whiteface Mountain Hiking Trails FLATTEN OUT!
I was so excited to see that the Whiteface Mountain hiking trails flatten out! As the trail skirted Marble Mountain I let loose and began hopping from boulder to boulder then broke out into a run.
The trails on this part of the route were narrow and muddy but lots of boulders to keep you out of the mud.
I was still looking over my shoulder for bears but there were now people hiking so I was less scared. I ran and ran and ran until the trail started to climb again.
The Secret to Speed Hiking on Difficult Terrain: Confidence
Speed hiking doesn’t have to stop when faced with a vertical boulder field. The next section of my hike up to the peak of Whiteface was filled with pitches of boulders and a decent amount of hikers. This is where I shine.
The secret to moving quickly up boulders is confidence. If you are confident you will place your feet firmly on each rock. If you are confident you will grab a handhold and use your legs to propel you up the rock.
I always politely ask fellow hikers if they mind if I pass. I did get stuck behind a fellow that did not want to let me by. I quietly ascended behind him until he grew winded and finally let me pass.
For me, boulders make me feel alive. With each step up I feel the power in my quad muscles. I rise confidently each time I lift myself.
I also look at a vertical boulder field as a challenge. Can I make every step and handhold a good one? Can I be agile and move efficiently up the rocks?
For insight into how I train to be confident and powerful on boulders, see my article Exercises for Uphill Hiking
Hiking Whiteface: You’ve Made It! And so have all the tourists…
Be prepared that if you are hiking Whiteface on a nice day, the peak will be swamped with tourists that drove up the Whiteface Mountain Memorial Highway.
Whiteface Mountain is pretty spectacular for the views!
One must always take a selfie by the peak sign:
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Whiteface Mountain Stairway Ridge Trail
From the peak, you either hike back down or take the Whiteface Mountain Stairway Ridge Trail to the parking lot.
Disclaimer: I look for mountains to hike up and drive down (my husband meets me at the top). I have an arthritic knee so up is great, down, not so much.
The stairs along the ridge of Whiteface provide a spectacular view after the peak. There is a handrail which is very handy if your legs are a bit stiff from the hike up. Alternatively, you can take the Whiteface elevator down to the next level. Lineups can be long in warmer months. The reward is a bathroom inside once you reach the lower building.
Camping Near Whiteface Mountain
Camping near Whiteface Mountain can be a little tricky. Our four-day weekend hiking trip in August was planned only a couple of weeks out. In general, you can expect to drive thirty to forty minutes from any of the major mountains, Whiteface included.
We were able to book at Magic Pines Campground. The grounds were nice and so were the sites and it was very reasonably priced. There is a trailer park next door that is also owned by the owners of Magic Pines. Music can be a little loud but nothing late into the night.
Coffee in Lake Placid
Our search for coffee in Lake Placid led us to two coffee bars: Bluesberry Bakery and Starbucks. Both were great and we love trying coffee shops whenever we travel. Yes, we went from coffee bar to coffee bar. Let’s face it, when we head out for an epic weekend adventure there’s going to be a lot of coffee involved.
Lake Placid is a neat little village where you can stroll down the main street, coffee in hand and, visit all the shops. There is also a nice park on the water where you can sit, with coffee and, enjoy the sunshine and views.
Hiking Challenges on Strava
I dedicated an article to hiking challenges with this fast and steep hike up Whiteface being one of the challenges. I began to monitor my Strava activity when I started to wear my Garmin watch on solo speed hikes. It’s fun to look at how you place on Strava’s segment challenges. For this hike, I placed sixth in the 45-54 age group. Happy to report that in 2023 I went up an age group, which means I get to set a new record on Whiteface!
Read more to help master your next hike…
